Beef and chicken kebab ($11.95) offers a skewer of each, the beef pleasantly chewy. The meat is particularly good wrapped in pita as shawarma ($6.95) with lots of crisp vegetables, tahini, and hummus.

The menu posted outside Kabab Café, in Astoria’s Little Egypt, is out of date by roughly a quarter century. Ali El Sayed, the proprietor, chef, and sole employee, put it up shortly after ...